Nikon Lens Buying Guide
Nikon Lens Buying Guide >>> https://byltly.com/2tkP2o
Despite buying cameras which have been specifically designed to take and make use of different lenses, a large number of photographers only ever use the kit lens that their DSLR or interchangeable lens camera came with. But it's really not that surprising, picking the right next lens can be daunting, which is why we're going to try to help with our guide to life after the kit lens.
I suggest the AF 18 - 35mm f/3.5-4.5D ED-IF. It sells for about $450 after the rebate. I use the AF-S 17 - 35mm f/2.8 ED-IF that weighs a ton and costs $1,500 and which I bought before the smaller 18 - 35 was introduced. For rational people the 18 - 35 gives exactly the same quality images as my $1,500 lens without all the weight. If you want to be picky by all means go for the $1,500 lens, just remember that the $450 one wasn't available when I bought my 17 - 35 so I didn't have the choice you do. The 18 - 35 is a very well made, easy to use, light, fast focusing, focuses very close and is a very sharp lens. I suggest it for everyone so long as you're not shooting a lot of architecture. Read my reviews for all the details. This again is an easy recommendation since it's so good. I have never seen either of these new lenses used so I can't vouch for buying them that way, just buy them new at discount at the links on each page. Zoom lenses have internal cams that can wear and degrade the performance of a lens over time.
I don't bother with discount lenses like Tamron and Sigma. Sigma is very poorly made (actually I've been told the name is derived from SIGnificant MAlfunction), so of course it costs less. When you go to sell the lenses you get much more much faster for real Nikkor lenses so I see no reason for the false economy of cheap lenses. Of all the cheapies I'd try Tokina first. More here about why your local camera store probably is pushing the cheaper (but higher-profit) discount lenses on you. In spite of what camera stores tell you, I know of NO professional photographers or even decent amateurs who use anything other than camera brand lenses. And no, no one pays me anything to do this site and no one's giving or even loaning me free cameras; this is what I've learned over decades of buying and selling all this for my own personal photography.
You may have got your hands on your first ever Nikon DSLR camera, possibly off our entry-level DSLR guide, but eventually you'll start to outgrow the18-55mm kit lens it arrived with. You'll start to crave a bit more creative freedom, and the best way to expand your horizons is by going on the hunt for some of the best Nikon lenses.
Except for entry level DSLRs where you only get the kit lens with camera body, buying a 3rd party lens is usually not a good idea. If you have enough budget, always buy the Nikon brand lenses since they are designed specifically to work with your camera body and has latest technology built-in so you do not have to upgrade again. It is usually more value for money as well if comparing between 3rd party lenses.
Always check the physical size of the lenses you wish to buy before buying. For example, if you own a Nikon D5100, the maximum focal length of your lens is 55mm and it makes sense for you to buy a shorter 35mm prime lens or anything below instead of buying a 50mm one which cannot be take advantage due to the 1.5x crop factor.
As you may have already found out there are dozens, if not hundreds of lenses compatible with your new Nikon. Most of them are good, some of them are excellent, a few are terrible. It's always best to do your research before buying, or in this case let somebody else do it for you!
Leica Screw Mount cameras were such a runaway successin the 30's to late 50's that many other companies made (and in some cases continue tomake) Leica \"Copies\" using that mount, and of course the lenses for same. Themost outstanding Leica Copy camera was the long lived line of Canon Rangefinders. Nikon,while not using the LTM mount for its own cameras, also made superb LTM lenses until thelate 50's. In all, hundreds of different lenses were made in LTM. Many photogs of the 50'sand 60's thought the Nikon and Canon lenses better than the Leitz, so take a close lookbefore you pass them up. This buyer's guide will only cover the most well known of them,the ones you are most likely to encounter. Remember, this is a User's guide, not acollector's guide.
When I first looked at this book on Amazon it seemed like a high priced book for just a paperback buying guide on cameras. I took a chance that the 5 start ratings were not just fluff reviews. I was not disappointed. This book is amazing! Worth every penny. Not just price guide but it has strategies for putting together a complete photo set up at a good price. His used camera and lens prices are spot on with ebay. I especially like the way he has all subjects set up with quick reference charts. This book is fast to reference when checking used prices online.
This book is fantastic! Without being hyperbolic it is one of the best buying guides I have seen on a subject as complex as photography. It is part buying guide/catalog, part tip guide, and part encyclopedia, and is overall very comprehensive.
Always make sure to bring your own camera when buying used lenses. Ask the seller if they are going to be comfortable with you mounting their lens on your camera before the purchase and thoroughly testing it. If they refuse, it is probably best to avoid that seller, as they might be trying to hide something.
The reason why it is important to test a lens on a camera, is because you will be able to quickly see if there is any potential problem with the lens. A lens might appear perfectly normal on the outside, but it might have mechanical, electronic and other problems that can only be identified when it is mounted on a properly functioning camera. It is also beneficial to bring your own camera, because some lenses might do well on some camera bodies and not so well on others. We have explained this in detail in our Lens Calibration guide, so make sure to give that article a read to understand why lens AF calibration issues can be painful to deal with.
If the lens you are interested in buying has image stabilization / vibration reduction, make sure to give it a thorough test. Turn image stabilization on (usually a switch on the side of the lens) and try taking pictures while hand-holding the lens. Make sure that stabilization works and there is no crazy jumping around of framing in the viewfinder.
Equipment is expensive, even entry level photography gear adds up quickly, so many new and seasoned shooters choose to buy used. There is nothing wrong with this! With lenses, it's often possible to save upwards of 50% of the original cost, but there are a few key things you want to look out for when buying used.
I'm a big fan of buying used lenses, simply because when you buy the higher end ones, there is some significant money to be saved and unlike camera bodies, you don't need to worry about more megapixels or faster frames per second coming out. Like most photographers, I started with entry level gear and worked my way up to the higher end lenses. My workhorse of a lens, the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L is a cherished piece in my arsenal and one I've now owned for over five years. Good glass stays good with a little care and maintenance, and should last for many more years to come.
You can also read other tutorials (such as the Nikon D5200 lenses or Nikon D5000 lenses guide) on this website to learn some interesting tips about photography. We also have many valuable tips and tricks that will improve your skills and the quality of your photos.
From ultra-wide angles and fisheyes to super-telephotos and tilt-shift lenses, Nikon offers a variety of optics for speciality uses, but the list below covers general purpose lenses only. Not sure exactly what type of lens you want Pay a visit to our lens buying guide before making your pick.
As you can see, this will really hold you back when shooting in low light. I thoroughly recommend that the first upgrade you look for when buying a new lens is one that allows a wider maximum aperture without changing throughout the focal length.
Buyer's Guide Intro Which underwater housing should I get Which underwater camera is best What is the best lens for underwater video We hope to answer these and other questions in our buyer's guides for underwater photo & video gear such as housings, lenses, wet lenses, strobes, video lights, focus lights, and more. Please don't hesitate to reach out to us with any questions. Camera GuidesWhat Camera is right for you View All
As we spoke to long time hunters during our research for this buying guide, it became apparent that there was a fair amount of brand loyalty, similar to the way it is with automobiles. If you had a particular brand of hunting binoculars that you liked and it served you well over a period of years, you were very likely to be partial to that brand.
It is impossible for me to list here all the types of lenses + polarizing filters, and say whether or not there will be vignetting or not. It is best to check the forums before buying. With long focal lengths, zooms, you will obviously not have any problems with vignetting.
I put together this guide to help people figure out how to get started with this powerful combination and to give advice on which lenses to get. Leica lenses have recently been a whole new world for me, and as I go through the process of figuring all this out, I wanted to share it with you!
Both S5s use the L-mount lens system, an effort to do for full-frame what Panasonic did for micro four-thirds: create a unified lens mount standard. Leica is the driving force behind the L-mount, but Panasonic and Sigma also have plenty of glass in L-mount. That means there's no shortage of lenses for the S5. If your primary use case is video, be sure to check out our guide to the gear and tips you need to make studio-grade home videos. 59ce067264
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